Transplanting a Large Dioon spinulosum
by Jody Haynes

Transplanting a large Dioon is very much like transplanting just about any large cycad. In this article, I will first provide a brief overview of the common horticultural practices involved in transplanting cycads. I will then provide a mini photo documentary of a large D. spinulosum that I successfully transplanted during the spring of 2002.

Although cycads can be transplanted any time of year, the best time is right before a flush of new leaves (Jones, 1993; Whitelock, 2002). If you are moving your own plant from one location to another in your garden, then you might have an idea of when it normally flushes. If it isn’t your plant, or if you haven’t witnessed a new flush, the best time to transplant is in the spring in temperate climates, and just prior to the rainy season in tropical areas. Establishment times will vary by species, with Cycas typically establishing quickly and Encephalartos often taking up to a year to produce new leaves (Jones, 1993). Establishment time also varies by size, with smaller plants establishing faster than larger plants. Large plants take longer to establish because they have very few, if any, feeder roots near the base of the stem (Whitelock, 2002), so it takes longer for the plant to produce a whole new set of feeder roots. The other issue involving transplanting larger plants is that, during the excavation of the root ball, larger roots will undoubtedly be cut. These large roots should be treated with a mixture of fungicide and rooting hormone before the plant is installed in its new location (Whitelock, 2002). It may also be advisable to spray the transplanted cycad with a broad-spectrum insecticide. This will not only protect the weakened plant from pest attacks, but will also protect the garden against the introduction of potential pests from the new plant (Whitelock, 2002).

The following is a checklist for successfully transplanting cycads:

1. Carefully choose the new planting location, assuring that the soil is well-drained; the planting conditions are within the preferred range of light, water, and temperature for the species; and there is enough room for the plant to grow to its ultimate size;
2. Remove all, or at least 2/3 of the leaves (this is particularly important in large plants, and may not be necessary for small plants);
3. Carefully excavate the plant from its original location, making every effort to save as many roots as possible, and cutting cleanly any roots that cannot be saved;
4. Carefully lift the plant out of the existing hole, and treat any large severed roots with fungicide and rooting hormone;
5. Carefully move the plant to its new location and install it in a hole that is about twice as wide as the root ball and only deep enough so that the soil level remains the same as it was in the original hole (unless, of course, the plant is being moved because it was originally planted too deeply);
6. Refill the new hole with the existing (un-amended) soil, and firm the soil around the root ball;
7. Water the plant in and rock the plant from side to side to remove large air pockets in the soil;
8. Stake the plant, if necessary, to prevent it from falling or being blown over;
9. Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plant, but do not allow it to touch the caudex, as this can cause fungal problems;
10. Water only if it is not raining and the soil begins to dry out (too much water can incite root rot).

Coming back to the species at hand, here is a series of photos documenting the transplant of a large Dioon spinulosum from a local business property to my garden in April 2002. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any photos of the plant prior to digging it and moving it to my house.

Figure 1. The trunk of the plant lying in the bed of my truck. Note the darker coloration of the caudex at the original soil line. Note also one of two suckers that I had to take special precautions with.	Figure 2. My truck strategically parked next to the awaiting hole. Note the root ball of the plant on the far left.	Figure 3. The plant carefully set into place in the hole. Note that I placed the plant so that the suckers would be in front of the main stem. This yields a fuller looking plant once the suckers flush a set of leaves.
Figure 4. The hole filled in. Note the meter stick showing that the same amount of caudex is above the ground level as it was in the original location.	Figure 5. First flush of leaves emerging from the main stem one month after transplant.	Figure 6. A temporary wind screen that I erected to protect the new leaves from the wind. It just so happened that the first flush began emerging during the windiest time of the year.
Figure 7. Close-up of the full-sized new leaves.	Figure 8. First new flush of leaves on the suckers. This occurred about two months after the main stem flushed.	Figure 9. An odd shot that I took laying on the ground looking up the main stem.

References

 Jones, D. L. 1993. Cycads of the World. Smithsonian Institution Press, Washington, D.C.

 Whitelock, L. M. 2002. The Cycads. Timber Press, Portland, OR.

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