Archontophoenix alexandrae
Photo by Dennis Lutge |
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DONATE SEEDS TO CFPACS
Have seed-bearing palms/cycads in your care? You can help CFPACS by donating seeds from these plants to the seedbank! You will help CFPACS generate revenue and help your fellow palmateers by making more seeds available to them! For donations please email Mark Peters. |
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It seems those who are finding they have Asian cycad scale are at a loss as what to do to save their favorite king or queen sago palms. There are conflicting reports as to how to control the insects. Even landscapers who once found the king sago to be a virtually trouble free plant are now at a loss as to what to do when the homeowners ask them to tend to the problem. We have considered here several options and are now prepared to suggest a treatment regiment.
1) Determine rather or not you have the Asian scale. This should be easy to identify. The Asian scale differs from magnolia scale in that it seems to always start in the fuzzy part of the crown, the trunk or near the roots. Early infestations are hard to determine except magnolia scale is much less likely to start in these locations. About 28 days after initial infection of the sago, then you start seeing the eggs hatch and millions of crawler scales moving from the crown up the leaves of the sago, at first the stem of the individual leaves are nearly coated white. A definite clue that you have Asian scale is the speed at which it can multiply. Once the first egg batch hatches a clean sago palm can get so many scales on the stems of leafs that the stem can show up white in photographs. The crawlers also can move inches per day rather then inches per month as with magnolia scale. You can also see small long/thin pin shaped "male" scales all over which typically outnumber the females dramatically.
2) Cut and remove ALL leaves on the sago. Be careful in this leaf removal process that you do not shake up scales to be blown in the wind. It is in your best interest not to allow the scales from your plants to spread to others in your yard or to infect neighbor's plants. Carefully bag all the leaves, do not carry them to the dump loose in an open trailer or back of pickup truck. This will spread them all over town and then the war against these pests will be lost. The best option is to try to burn them. If burning is not an option, Asian cycad scale does not infect other plants. You can find a location 30 feet or more away from your sago and bury the leaves.
3) Spray or coat the trunk, crown and soil with oil. Seems the pest can be smothered to death by spraying cooking oil, horticultural oil (available at better lawn and garden centers) or fish emulsion oil has also been shown to be effective. You may need a dial and spray sprayer and follow the directions on the label. It seems approximately 5 fluid ounces per gallon is the mixing rate, to make the oil mix with water use some type of dishwashing liquid squirted in the sprayer "and" it is a pretty good idea to mix either malathion 50 or diazinon so that both the oil and pesticide spray on at their individual suggested rates per gallon. The suggested rate is about 1 quart per sago palm although some indications are this is ignoring scale that could be in your soil in the roots of the plant, so you may want to give the soil a really good soak down with the mix. The treatments will need to be repeated every two weeks, if you are getting heavy rains of summer, retreat weekly. This is only a short term immediate fix just to contain your own damage to your palm and to prevent spreading your insects to others in the yard or neighborhood. Treatment with oil should be used for about 3 months and then you can discontinue as long as neighbor's plants don't appear to be infested and you have no signs of infestation yourself.
4) Inform your neighbors about Asian Cycad Scale. Show them what to look for and give them treatment advice. Identification and treatment is the best thing we can do to beat Asian Cycad Scale. Unlike Citrus Canker, this pest can be cured. The idea is get your neighbors to cure their plants as well so they will not re-infect your plants later.
5) Long Lasting Systemic Pesticides. In Tampa its not certain the war against the pest is completely lost. There is a good chance Tampa's much colder then Miami winters will harass the insects. We stand a better chance of controlling the pest. After the initial response with oil and rapid kill pesticides, systemic pesticides like imidoclopid, sygon or orthene will help buy you more time between treatments and in effect, make the entire plant poisonous to anything that tries to feed upon it. Imidoclopid seems to be the longest lasting, lasting up to 4 months between treatments and is the treatment of choice at Fairchild Tropical Gardens in Miami (in the middle of the worst infested area of the state). Systemics also prevent reinfestation from a neighbor's infested plant by never allowing wind blown scales to establish and feed upon your plant.